Blue Footed Boobie |
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We recently completed a week long adventure of a lifetime on the trimaran the M/T Camilla operated by Haugan Cruises arriving Isla San Cristobal by air from Quito and exiting again by air for Quito from Isla Baltra.
In between we cruised many of the islands (you need to be on a two week cruise to see them "all" and even then you can't see them "all" -- many are protected and no one can go there), we snorkelled every day and we explored the islands getting up close to all sorts of animals. We swam with lots of fishies, sharks, turtles, sea lions and even penguins. We chased a whale with its calf in our zodiak. We met the huge land tortoises which populate the green side of Santa Cruz (one of the very few populated islands) and visited the town of Ayora. And we shared the beaches with sea lions and their cubs.
The Camilla is a new boat and very well appointed. We picked it as a small boat with nice balconies. There are only 8 rooms and all are huge with king beds (actually two singles pushed together). There are 12 crew to serve you and at most 16 passengers. For part of our trip there were only 6 of us, for the remainder there were 14. We suspect recent riots in Quito may have dissuaded some tourists from coming. Sometimes the ship would travel at night and there were some rough nights at sea -- no one got sick but gravol helped while trying to sleep. We did have one served dinner on rough seas. But mostly it was cool and windy with calm waters.
We were sometimes up and about on walking tours of the islands before sunset and breakfast. Occassionally we only made it back on board after sunset -- there is a regulation that tourists may only be on the protected islands during daylight hours.
Every day there was 1-2 snorkelling trips (very good wet suits, fins, mask and snorkel are provided) and 1-2 walking tours on the beach or inland on rocky trails (walking sticks are provided) to see nesting birds. Marine Iguanas by the truck load! An occasional land iguana, Blue and Red footed Boobies, Frigate Birds, Albatross, gulls, flamingo, pelicans and more. Sea Lions and their young on sandy beaches. Our days were very full and sometimes quite strenuous -- the land is volcanic and often very rough. We skipped a couple of the strenous hikes. Each night, after dinner, the guide would give us a lecture on what we'd see the next day. After that, exhausted, we trundled off to bed and slept soundly.
Staff on the boat were outstanding as was their service. Breakfast and lunch were a buffet but dinner was always an excellent served three course meal. Chef Ramiro should be commended for doing so well in such confined space. Gabriela, the Cruise Director, was gracious, cheerful and always there to meet or exceed your needs.
The house cleaning staff were attentive and we luxuriated with fresh linens and fresh water showers several times a day (fresh water is a scarce commodity on the islands -- they sometimes trade fresh water for lobster or fish with fishermen). The guide Morris and zodiak drivers Jefferson and Manuel were friendly and always helpful. Sometimes our language was a problem with some of the staff (we have minimal Spanish) but the hostess and guide spoke flawless English.
The bar didn't open until 4:30 but often you were out adventuring with the guide until much later. Drinks were always available at lunch and dinner with barman Angel serving. The strenous workouts exploring the sea and shore meant that there was little time for and little alcohol consumed (although there is a full bar and a very good wine list). This most definitely is not a "Booze Cruise".
This isn't a luxury sea cruise where one rests in the shade by the pool with a cuba libre in one hand, an iPad in the other and a server at your beck and call. You are roughing it. It's an adventure tour for hardy souls willing to explore a unique, varied and demanding environment on sea and shore. There is no WiFi, no phone and most islands are barren landscapes with no human habitation. Nevertheless, it's an adventure well worth going. There's no place like it.
We are very blessed to have been there and done that! You can too.
We recently completed a week long adventure of a lifetime on the trimaran the M/T Camilla operated by Haugan Cruises arriving Isla San Cristobal by air from Quito and exiting again by air for Quito from Isla Baltra.
In between we cruised many of the islands (you need to be on a two week cruise to see them "all" and even then you can't see them "all" -- many are protected and no one can go there), we snorkelled every day and we explored the islands getting up close to all sorts of animals. We swam with lots of fishies, sharks, turtles, sea lions and even penguins. We chased a whale with its calf in our zodiak. We met the huge land tortoises which populate the green side of Santa Cruz (one of the very few populated islands) and visited the town of Ayora. And we shared the beaches with sea lions and their cubs.
The Camilla is a new boat and very well appointed. We picked it as a small boat with nice balconies. There are only 8 rooms and all are huge with king beds (actually two singles pushed together). There are 12 crew to serve you and at most 16 passengers. For part of our trip there were only 6 of us, for the remainder there were 14. We suspect recent riots in Quito may have dissuaded some tourists from coming. Sometimes the ship would travel at night and there were some rough nights at sea -- no one got sick but gravol helped while trying to sleep. We did have one served dinner on rough seas. But mostly it was cool and windy with calm waters.
We were sometimes up and about on walking tours of the islands before sunset and breakfast. Occassionally we only made it back on board after sunset -- there is a regulation that tourists may only be on the protected islands during daylight hours.
Every day there was 1-2 snorkelling trips (very good wet suits, fins, mask and snorkel are provided) and 1-2 walking tours on the beach or inland on rocky trails (walking sticks are provided) to see nesting birds. Marine Iguanas by the truck load! An occasional land iguana, Blue and Red footed Boobies, Frigate Birds, Albatross, gulls, flamingo, pelicans and more. Sea Lions and their young on sandy beaches. Our days were very full and sometimes quite strenuous -- the land is volcanic and often very rough. We skipped a couple of the strenous hikes. Each night, after dinner, the guide would give us a lecture on what we'd see the next day. After that, exhausted, we trundled off to bed and slept soundly.
Staff on the boat were outstanding as was their service. Breakfast and lunch were a buffet but dinner was always an excellent served three course meal. Chef Ramiro should be commended for doing so well in such confined space. Gabriela, the Cruise Director, was gracious, cheerful and always there to meet or exceed your needs.
The house cleaning staff were attentive and we luxuriated with fresh linens and fresh water showers several times a day (fresh water is a scarce commodity on the islands -- they sometimes trade fresh water for lobster or fish with fishermen). The guide Morris and zodiak drivers Jefferson and Manuel were friendly and always helpful. Sometimes our language was a problem with some of the staff (we have minimal Spanish) but the hostess and guide spoke flawless English.
The bar didn't open until 4:30 but often you were out adventuring with the guide until much later. Drinks were always available at lunch and dinner with barman Angel serving. The strenous workouts exploring the sea and shore meant that there was little time for and little alcohol consumed (although there is a full bar and a very good wine list). This most definitely is not a "Booze Cruise".
This isn't a luxury sea cruise where one rests in the shade by the pool with a cuba libre in one hand, an iPad in the other and a server at your beck and call. You are roughing it. It's an adventure tour for hardy souls willing to explore a unique, varied and demanding environment on sea and shore. There is no WiFi, no phone and most islands are barren landscapes with no human habitation. Nevertheless, it's an adventure well worth going. There's no place like it.
We are very blessed to have been there and done that! You can too.
Date of experience: November 2019
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