Monday, March 10, 2014

Austin - Winter 2014

Kate and I spent 5 weeks in Austin this winter (late January through to early March) to repeat the wonderful time we had last year. Here are some photos of the South Austin area where we stayed. The photo at left is Kate, by her bike and the "Greetings From Austin" sign painted on the side of Road House Relics in our south Austin neighborhood. The sign is a landmark that's been recently restored.

The weather in Austin, while warmer than home here in Canada, was quite cool by times. The "polar vortex" that made for a tough winter in Canada definitely had an effect on us in Austin. There was at least one day were schools we closed because of icy roads and many mornings were quite cool. Nevertheless we had fun -- lots of Tex/Mex food, live music, biking on the river, etc. Unfortunately, I came down with a cold/flu that lasted for weeks. I was sick enough that I ended up having to see a doctor and get some medication.
The Drive Down:
We drove down over three days in our new Hyundai Elantra (we packed in our 2002 Honda Civic after the trip last year) with our two cats Richard Parker and Piscine Patel and our two bikes on the back. It's about 2,500km (or about 25 hours on interstate roads) to Austin from our home here in St Mary's Ontario.
The first night, after 9 hours of driving, we made it to Elizabethtown Kentucky just south of Louisville where we stayed at the La Quinta (one of the few hotel chains that's cat friendly). We had some really nice take away food from the Namaste Indian Cuisine and Bar next door -- we even got a discount for staying at the La Quinta. Kate was so impressed by the food there she promises to write a review.
It was a cold drive down with snow in the fields and still very cold in the morning when we awoke with a heavy frost on the car windows.
We took a little detour on the Western Kentucky Parkway to avoid Nashville and Memphis. That's a pleasant drive through rolling hill country only mostly interstate grade highways where you meet up with I55 in Missouri just north of Memphis. In retrospect, the quickest route is probably to stay on the interstate and go through Nashville and Memphis as we did last year.
That night, after another 9 hours of driving, we stayed in Texarkana TX at another La Quinta. Much warmer but still a bit cool -- no snow of course. And then the last day was a short drive to Austin arriving at mid afternoon at Casita del Sol our home on South Austin. The same place where we had stayed last year.
The Neighborhood:
Casita del Sol is an area known as Bouldin Creek in South Austin (south in the sense of south of the river) not too far from South Congress where there's lots going on that we're interested in. We like this place because of the neighborhood, the yard and the pet friendly policies. Our cats can enjoy supervised play in the back yard as you can tell from the pictures.
The neighborhood would have been working class at one time. The original homes are quite modest -- ours we'd call a cottage -- two bedroom, one bath but a nicely sized yard. As the area is so close to downtown it's a desirable neighborhood where people are buying up these old worker cottages, yanking them down and building modern brutalism architected homes in a style you might expect in the hills of LA. It's a transitional neighborhood.

As an older neighborhood it's well treed. Other times I've picked pecans off the street where they've dropped from the trees.
The photo album has pictures of our home and others in the neighborhood.
Markets:
There are a couple of farmer's markets we regularly went to for fresh veggies. The HEB supermarket around the corner on South Congress served most of our needs although we did pop in to Whole Foods a couple of times. Whole Foods started as a hippy-dippy kind of food store in Austin. My brother Paul worked for Whole Foods for a while in Vancouver. At one time Whole Foods set the standard for quality wholesome foods but these days the supermarkets have caught up to them. HEB variously stands for "Here Everythings Better" or Howard E. Butt -- I prefer the first and we usually shopped there.
There's a farmer's market on Saturday downtown where we learned about broccoli greens. We'd never had them before -- sort of like rappini. It was winter time so winter vegetables were plentiful. There was also a nice lady who sold fish and shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico.

One day Kate bought a big bag of fresh spinach which we serve with pasta -- you boil up some pasta and at the end add in the spinach. Drain and serve with olive oil or butter (if you're not counting calories) and lots of fresh parmesan. Kate was cooking this time (I'm usually the chef) and served me a big bowl of pasta, fresh spinach and a giant sized cooked bug! A bit of fresh meat I was not expecting. Wash your spinach carefully!
The second market we regularly went to was on Saturday on South Lamar a short distance away. It has a pretty big flea market but we bought nice veggies there as well. We also tried some mead (honey wine) and some ready made Indian foods we could take home to eat later in the week. Other albums show some of the restaurants we enjoyed.

The Austin Marathon:

There's an annual marathon race early in the morning one weekend in February and part of the race is down South 1st. It's odd to wake early in the morning to the sound of live music (it's Austin so every event has live music) and cheering. I went out to explore and to get the morning paper at the neighborhood gas station. As far as I could see in either direction the street was packed solid with runners. So many that I couldn't get across the street to get my paper!

Not everyone seems to agree with the idea of running a marathon. I saw a pickup truck go by with a sign saying something along the lines of "I bet you wish you had gone to the crapper when you had the chance" (I didn't catch a photo of them). Another group, apparently the chess club, had a sign saying "You're all crazy -- you could be playing chess".

It's not the Boston Marathon but I am impressed with how big it is. Of course Austin is a city where it seems that everyone is out jogging around the lake most days.

Closing:

I'll bring this posting to a close now. And I'll be back later with more postings on our adventures while in Austin, TX this winter.

Sunday, March 9, 2014

Last Days in Austin

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This photo album documents our last day in Austin and the return home to Canada. We had been vacationing in Austin from late February through to early March staying in the South Austin neighborhood of Bouldin not too far from South Congress.

On the last day we loaded up our car (I'm not sure how we got all the gear in but we did) and headed up to the Little Longhorn Saloon on Burnet in north Austin. We were curious about this bar and hadn't found the opportunity to visit. It's famous for Sunday afternoon "Chicken Shit Bingo" (use your imagination) and hot nights where the band plays to a crowded dance floor. We didn't catch either of those but have high hopes for next year.

What we did catch that night was a smoking show by Joe Ely for KDRP radio at Guero's. We just happened onto that event.

Pictures after that document our adventures in the car with our two cats. On the way back we drove up through Oklahoma to St Louis on the first day (a very long drive). And then home to St Marys on the second day.

We arrive home to discover that winter still has our home in it's grips.

[This is a a repost from 2014 on Google+]

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Austin Restaurants

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If you're in Austin for winter holiday, and that holiday lasts 5 weeks, then it's a sure bet you're going to eat out a few times. There's lots of fine restaurants to explore along with the expected Tex/Mex. Some restaurants are shown in other albums - this album is all about restaurants we explored.

There's a couple of very fine restaurants where you will pay top dollar and have a dining experience. We tried out Paul Qui's new restaurant "Qui" in east Austin and sampled a few dishes. We did the 15 course tapas styled prix fixe dinner at Barley Swine on South Lamar (in our neighborhood) and left feeling stuffed and over fed -- please don't bring another dish! It would be better if one could select a few dishes from the 15 or so courses and walk away pleasantly fed. Both are very fine restaurants but the one we kept coming back to was Sway on South 1st (in our neighborhood). It's a Thai restaurant with good food, a nice decor and a reasonable price.

For Thai food we also tried IM Thai in a south suburban strip mall. We enjoyed it very much and would recommend it.

Kate is vegetarian (but does eat eggs, fish and cheese) so we tried a few. The Bouldin Cafe in our neighborhood is funky with a younger crowd with very good breakfast/lunch foods. Mother's Cafe in north Austin above the University is well worth a visit. We did try Counter Culture in east Austin but it's not our cup of tea.

We liked Red's Porch on South Lamar -- Kate especially liked the salads. It would be a great spot on warm evenings as it looks out over a green belt. Mettle, in east Austin, is a reasonably priced up scale restaurant with a nice patio.

For down home cooking you can't beat Sunday Brunch at Threadgills where they have live music -- usually gospel tinged. And for a "bowl of red" try the Texas Chili Palor bar on Lavaca near the capitol. We went because of the Guy Clark song: "Oh, I wish I was in Texas. In a Chili Palor bar drinking Mad Dog Margaritas and not carin' where you are.."

We tried some cajun food at Evangalines in a south Austin strip mall. The music and decor seemed genuine enough. Tex/Mex food -- Guero's (of course), El Mercado every Monday and the Hula Hut on Lake Austin where we had gone to try something different only to discover more Tex/Mex.

Still haven't tried the food trucks.

Here's a photo album of our adventures.

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Austin Music

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Austin is Live Music and that's one of the main reasons we take our winter holidays there. This album is a collection of photos from various shows we went to during Feb-Mar of 2014. See also the albums for Strange Brew and the El Mercado where we returned many times.

The Cactus Cafe on grounds of UTexas is a folk club with a long history of booking important folk acts. We saw the Austin Lounge Lizards and really enjoyed ourselves. They're very funny and we've been hoping to see them for years. Another night we went to see Terri Hendrix (with Lloyd Maines) who I have followed for years. We missed Iris Dement at the Cactus Cafe (tickets were gone by the time we discovered, then a second gig was booked and it sold out before we knew about it). The night we saw Terri Hendrix was the same night that Kinky Friedman and Billy Joe Shaver were in town at seperate gigs!

We went back to the Broken Spoke for dinner one evening and to see Amanda Cevallos. James McMurtry, who we've seen before a couple of times, plays a midnight gig with a full band at the Continental Club -- we caught an earlier solo acoustic gig in the Continental Club Gallery (above the club). He can make a twelve string sound like a whole orchestra. We caught Charles Thibodeaux and the Austin Cajun Aces at Evangalines where they play every week. I'm a big fan of Cajun and Zydeco music. Cajun... Acadian... Canadian...

Mapjam is a day long musical event in east Austin sponsored by the UTexas radio station. On a sunny day you can bike or walk between outdoor events. We caught the "Carper Family" (a bluegrass outfit) and Hops & Grain (a brewery) and a punkish band "Grow" at a lumber yard (odd venue for sure).

A big treat for us was to see Chris Wall at the Twin Creeks Dancehall. Chris is a great song writer -- "I Feel Like Hank Williams Tonight" was made famous by Jerry Jeff Walker. We got a snap of Kate with Chris.

The best of all was the happinstance of catching Joe Ely's live to radio KDRP at Geuro's on our last night in town. We were aware of the KDRP radio broadcasts but hadn't investigated who played at them (they're not listed in the Chronicle). On our last night we stopped into a pizza joint across the street and recognized Joe signing when we got out of the car. We dashed over and caught the last half hour of the set. We wish we had known before hand.

Anyways, there's lots of live music in Austin.

I've blogged as well. Here's a photo album.

Guero's Taco Bar

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Geuro's Taco Bar on South Congress in Austin is one of our favorite places to hang out. Good Tex/Mex food of course but especially fun on the weekend when the weather is fine. On the weekends they have live music in the afternoon under the live oaks in an area that had been used as a waiting area for those waiting for a table in the restaurant. These days it's just one of the better music and dance places in town. They also make fine margaritas which we really enjoy -- shaken, no salt please. It's always a busy spot.

An especially great treat for us happened on our last night in town. We had stopped in at "Home Slice" pizza across the street to pick up some pizza for our dinner. Only to discover that Joe Ely was playing live for KDRP radio at Guero's. It was a very cool night but a really great show. We only caught the last half hour but Joe was in fine form. Another instance where we ought to have been prepared and investigated ahead of time.

If you're visiting Austin Texas, check out Guero's and the scene on South Congress. When the music is playing it's a great place to be.

Here's a photo album.

Monday, March 3, 2014

El Mercado

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The El Mercado is a Tex/Mex restaurant on South 1st Street a short bike ride from where we stayed while visiting Austin. There's another version of the El Mercado on Lavaca up by the University. Austin has lots of good Tex/Mex restaurants and the El Mercado is no exception but we were there for the music on "Mystery Mondays".

Mystery Mondays is a regular Monday event at the El Mercado hosted by Christine Albert. While we were there it was co-hosted with Jimmie Dale Gilmore. Every week they would have a "mystery guest" to accompany them and they'd play a couple of sets. Mostly an unrehearsed grab-bag of music shared by friends. And often they'd bring a friend out of the audience on stage to sing a few songs.

We stumbled onto this regular event when I saw a brief mention in the local newspaper. It's not advertised in the Chronicle, the local bible to what's happening. Apparently Christine Albert and Sarah Elizabeth Campbell had hosted a long running event of exactly this sort at Artz Ribs on Lamar (we happened to see Sarah at Artz many years ago). The regular Monday event moved to El Mercado when Artz closed a few years ago. Jimmie took over Sarah's role as cohost when she passed away in December of 2013 after a battle with cancer.

It's a fine music tradition on Monday nights. There's good food, if you're hungry. And the entrance is free -- they pass a tip jar. We enjoyed it so much we made it our regular Monday night event.

If you're in Austin, check out Monday Mystery nights at the El Mercado on South 1st. You will be pleasantly surprised.

Here's a photo album.

Sunday, March 2, 2014

Strange Brew

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Strange Brew is a 7/24 coffee shop in a strip mall on Manchaca in South Austin (sort of way south Austin as it's south of Ben White) that happens to be one of the better venues for live music in the city. Kate and I went to several events during our winter stay in Austin and saw lots of acts. We like Strange Brew because it's the kind of place where people listen to music -- it's not a noisy bar like those on 6th St. downtown. But it does have beer and wine along with coffees and various sandwiches. Check out the photos in my Strange Brew Album.

The photo at left is Alejandro Escovedo (an east Austin original) and Rosie Flores (a San Antonio native) playing together at Strange Brew at a benefit concert for Alejandro's son-in-law Matt McCormick who lost his Onion Creek home in a flash flood late in 2013. This was one of the few events where we stayed up late. Often times we'd catch one of the early shows and be home in bed at a sensible time. There's often 4 shows each night starting at 4:00pm and ending by midnight. The benefit was an evening filled with many acts headlined by Alejandro and Rosie.

We had caught Rosie last year at a MapJam concert at the Scoot Inn in East Austin but didn't get to see much as the place was very crowded. For Matt McCormick benefit event we purchased tickets on line which gave us early access to good seating and several raffle tickets. We had front row seats and got some good pictures of many of the acts. One of the best tunes at the concert was the duet by Alejandro and Rosie of "Goodbye Again" a song Rosie made famous as a duet with Dave Alvin on the 1994 "King of California" album. Alejandro also sang a smoking version of the Rolling Stones "Beast of Burden" which has been posted on YouTube.

It was an evening of great acts. One that stood out was Kacy Crowley with Will Knaak on guitar. We saw them last year and she did some of the same songs – "A Funeral for Spring". He did a great song "Take It All Away" and has just put out a record that he funded through crowd sourcing -- we've contributed and hope to see the CD soon.

We caught John Imnon several times at Strange Brew. He's a guy about our age who had played with Jerry Jeff, Marcia Ball and various others. Most of his career as a sideman but during February he was doing an early gig at Strange Brew to try out as a front man. We caught that act twice. The first time his set ended when he said that was all the songs he knew but that he would try to learn a new one each week! I'm not sure how well that went. He's well respected and we saw him another time with Jimmie Lafave.

On Valentine's day, when I was not at all well, we saw Butch Hancock at Strange Brew (with his son who looked about 14-15 noodling on the electric guitar, a guy playing fiddle (whose name we didn't catch) and Bob Livingston  (who looks a bit like Phillip Hoffman Seymour) on bass. Butch is one of the folks we really like to see and this year we caught him guesting several times at the El Mercado on Mystery Mondays. It was another good show at Strange Brew and early in the evening. Butch did some favorites that he wrote ("If You Were a Bluebird", "Thank God for the Road" ) as well as the Townes Van Zandt classic "Pancho and Lefty"  Butch leads a birthday tribute to Townes every year at the Cactus on March 7 (Townes’ birthday) and we missed that again having to return home -- next year we should be able to catch it. We were right up close to the stage on the side where we have sat the previous times there and got some good pictures. He told some funny stories including one about bringing his jeep back from Mexico to Terlingua after the jeep had been impounded by "The Federales" for a couple of years. The show was over by 10:00pm – another band was coming on.

On Sunday March 2 we had several entertainment options for the afternoon – there was a Sarah Elizabeth Campbell (long time host of Mystery Mondays at the El Mercado) memorial in Kyle with music by Christine Albert and others but it’s about 30 miles south of Austin and was in a hall but still the weather was crappy. The Lost Gonzo Band (Jerry Jeff Walkers old band with John Imnon, Gary P Nunn, Bob Livingston, Lloyd Maines, etc.) was having one of their reunions at the South Austin brewery just south of Ben White between IH-35  and Congress but we had gone to check it out and couldn’t figure out how they would be able to fit everyone inside plus there would probably be a lot of standing for Kate's new knee. So we went to see Sam Baker and friends at Strange Brew. Sam Baker was recommended by a fellow who works the door at Strange Brew who we had bumped into at an El Mercado Mystery Monday event. Kate liked Sam Baker and his music a lot  and bought all 4 of his CDs. I was not so keen -- his music is more spoken word poetry than song but still there were some very nice songs. It was an entertaining evening and went from 6pm to 7:30 so the timing was good. We also bought the "Caldera" CD of one of the women who was playing with him – Raina Rose. Her music is very nice and reminds me a bit of Sara Harmer (the Canadian singer).

One of the odder stories about Strange Brew is a camera story. While I really like the place for music and how close you can get to the stage I do have to complain about the lighting -- it's very minimal and therefore very hard to get good natural lighting photography without a high ISO rating and fast lens. While I can push my camera pretty high on film speed (the Canon T4i can shoot at ISO 25,000) and I do have a short 50mm f1.8 standard lens I sometimes resort to using a flash have done so many times at Strange Brew. Others, who have way deeper pockets, come with very expensive fast zooms -- like the Canon 7-210 f2.8 L series. One night, while shooting pictures of Jimmy Lafave, I decided to shoot some flash pictures and was clamping on my Vivitar 285 flash (it's big, ugly and very powerful) when a photographer nearby came to me and said "You can't use that!". I am aware that performers don't like flashes in their face and do try to be unobtrusive. The place doesn't have a no flash policy -- there are lots of point and shoot flashes going off.

Gosh, there's lots more I could write about Strange Brew but suffice to say -- it's one of the nicer places we have found for live music in Austin and we kept coming back. If you're in Austin, do check it out.


[PS. Strange Brew is no more.]

Saturday, March 1, 2014

Sam's Visit to Austin


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Our friend Sam came to visit us in Austin for a few days. We caught some music at Z-Tejas (Sam is a fan of Stephen Doster), Guero's (of course) and the Continental Club. We did some shopping on South Congress and we took her to Sway on South 1st for another great Thai lunch. Got a nice postcard photo with Kate and Sam under the "I Love You So Much" graffitti. We had fun, as always

This photo album shows our adventures.

[This is a repost from 2014 on Google+]