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The Broken Spoke is an old time honky tonk dance hall (built in the early 1960's by the owner James White) that is being squeezed out by development on South Lamar. Not too long ago Lamar was a lazy street out in the country and the Broken Spoke was surrounded by empty fields with plenty of parking in the gravel lot. These days Lamar is a busy 4-lane highway and there's new buildings going up on either side with only a bit of parking remaining on the gravel lot in front. While "this [still] ain't no fernie bar" they now have valet parking!
I suspect this honky tonk ain't long for this world what with land prices and development on Lamar. Worse yet, I understand that James White owns the building but only rents the land. And he's not a young man any more. So, if you're ever down this way, soak it up while you can.
I had just listened to a Sunday night podcast on the Americana Music Show where they shone a spotlight on Amanda Cevallos and her regular appearances at the Broken Spoke. We hadn't been in a while and I hadn't experienced a Chicken Fried Steak with white gravy (the Broken Spoke advertises that there's are the best in the world) so we hopped a cab and headed over for dinner. PS. we had missed Chris Wall who played the dance hall on the day we arrived in Austin.
Amanda and her band (she writes, sings and play acoustic guitar) were setting up in the dining room as we arrived. They play in the dining room from 6-8, there's dance lessons in the big hall from 8-9 then another dance hall band at 9:00. Amanda introduced herself as we entered, welcomed us and asked where we were from. She asks everyone where they're from and predicted, rightly, that people from all over the world would arrive for dinner.
The Americana Music Show had advertised her music as "Tejano". I'd describe it as good old fashioned honky tonk country. The band consists of able musicians on electric, bass and drums. She played some covers and some originals. There wasn't a set list, they just played the tunes that came to them. There were a few folks who were moved to dance between the crowded tables. We really enjoyed the music and bought a copy of her new CD "I'll Never Honky Tonk You" -- that's probably the first time "honky tonk" has been used as a verb.
There weren't many locals there for dinner (I suspect they come later for the dancing) but I did get my Chicken Fried Steak and it was pretty darn good. Unfortunately it was too early for mashed or baked potatoes so I had to settle for french fries. White Gravy really should have mashed potatoes.
Oh my, momma ain't that Texas Cookin' something
Oh my, momma it'll stop yo' belly and backbone bumpin'
Oh my, momma ain't that Texas Cookin' good
Oh my, momma eat it everyday if I could
---- Guy Clark (1970)
Well, it isn't that good if you're a vegetarian. Kate had cheese quesadillo's -- the only vegetarian dish on the menu apart from salad. This is a meat and potatoes kind of place.
Our waitress spotted our Canadian accents (everyone in Austin is from some place else, how did she spot us?). Turns out she had gone to school in Buffalo, NY where she obtained a Master's in Languages and was familiar with our accents and our part of the world -- Niagara Falls, Ontario, etc. She had even been to Georgian Bay. I'm from a little village called Walter's Falls in the Georgian Bay area. We all agreed that is a beautiful part of the world ... albeit snow covered at this time of the year. We were surprised that she was waitressing with her education but she told us this is what she enjoys most. I guess she's doing her part -- Keeping Austin Weird!
Hmm.. It's another sunny day this morning and I've rambled quite a bit here. Let's cut to the chase -- I'd recommend you visit the Broken Spoke in Austin and, if you're a fan of honky tonk country, check out Amanda Cevallos and her new CD.
Enjoyed your blog over my salad, trying to pretend it might be nearly as good as a chicken fried steak. More storms headed our way so I hope you are staying a while.
ReplyDeleteHi to Kate,
Love Kath