Monday Sept 14 through Wed Sept 16. First night Cornwall. Tuesday to QC, full day in QC before heading off to Moncton on Thursday
We're driving to Moncton to visit our niece Paula and to take in the Nashville Takeover in Moncton. We did a similar trip back in September 2024 when we toured the Gaspe and stayed in/near Shediac. Our plan is to take our time and stay longer at some of the places along the way. We didn't stay long in Quebec City last time, this time we're staying a bit longer -- we have booked two nights at a boutique hotel in the old city. The AirBnB we stayed in last time has become too expensive, even for us.
It's about 1,700km from our home in St Marys to Moncton so, in theory, one could drive there in under 24hrs. We've broken the trip up — our first night (Monday) is in Cornwall, Ontario where we stay at a Super 8 (it's part of the Wyndham group). We arrive in the late afternoon and settle in. It's a comfortable enough spot, right at the 401 highway, but we're in a second floor room in a hotel without an elevator. At our age slugging luggage up and down stairs is no fun. It doesn't have a restaurant either, so we get some takeaway from the Fat Bastard Burrito Co. which is a bit of a drive away. On our last trip we stayed at the Ramada Inn. It's is just down the road and a bit more expensive (but only a bit); however, there are several restaurants within walking distance and we stay there on the return trip.
From Cornwall Quebec City is easy striking distance. We avoid the city of Montreal (the last time we went through the city), taking a toll bridge crossing to the south bank of the St Lawrence. It's all 4 lane TransCanada Highway and, while there is some construction and delay, we arrive in Quebec City around 1:00pm. We can't get into our hotel until later in the day. Our plan is to visit the Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec (Pavillon Pierre Lassonde) near the Plains of Abraham and have lunch there. We had been there last time and really enjoyed our visit — interesting art, interesting special exhibits and a nice cafe. We park nearby in a pay lot at the Saint-Dominique Church. Across the street there's a private gallery with a strange horse sculpture on the lawn. We arrive at the Musée to discover the cafe is closed and has been for some time. Damn!
Nevertheless, we get tickets to enter and to take in the special exhibits: "HyperRealism: This is not a Body" (February 26, 2026 until March 7, 2027) and "Hidden Treasure: A Century of Mystery" (September 4, 2026 to whenever). The hidden treasure exhibit is about Zita of Bourbon-Parma, the last Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary, who fled Europe in WW II and found refuge in Sillery, Quebec City, with her children. It's an interesting story, the exhibit is mostly pictures and text, there is some jewelry to see, but we didn't bother to stand in line for that. The HyperRealism is frighteningly real. For example, there's this huge (like it fills an entire exhibition room) newborn child sculpted by the Australian Ron Mueck. We had seen this piece before in Melborne 2010/03 at the National Gallery of Victoria. In one of the rooms here, when people were standing admiring a piece, we were often confused as to which were the sculpted people and which were the real people (like us)! There were several artists exhibiting and a ton of interesting pieces. We took some time to explore the permanent collection; much of it familiar from the last visit.
In 1986, Kate had a late fall conference in Quebec City, we drove there and stayed at the Château Frontenac. Our friends Alison and Bruce (from Winnipeg) met us there. That was the food poisoning in Montreal trip. I need to dig through our old photo albums and find a record of that trip. I can't find it in this blog!
Back to this visit. Our Hôtel Château Bellevue is within the old walled city very near the citadel and a block from the Château Frontenac. In front is a green space, the Jardin des Gouverneurs (Governors' Garden), and in front of that is the Dufferin Terrace — a wide wooden walkway that overlooks the lower city. There's a US Consulate just down the street from us on the southeast corner of the park. We're at the southwest corner and have a nice room up one floor from the main floor. While there is an elevator, you have to get things up the stairs at the entrance to the building (turns out there is a side entrance to the elevator that avoids stairs). They had reserved us a room on the lower floor; Kate found that too close to the street level (windows were right on the sidewalk) so we switched for a room upstairs. Staff were kind a helpful We left our car with them, there's no parking at the hotel, and we relied on Uber to get around.
Later in the day (Tuesday), we explore a bit of the Dufferin Terrace and views from there. We end up at the (Italian) Parmesan Restaurant at the far side of the Chateau and only a couple of blocks from our hotel. The restaurant was busy, and we enjoyed the accordian player (shades of the Paris Metro) and our dinner. It's a short walk back to our room to end the day. But this is very near the limit for Kate's walking.
Wednesday. I have breakfast at our hotel, It's busy but they provide a nice light breakfast. I take coffee and milk back to our room for Kate and I then go out exploring the area. It's busy around the Chateau, it must be crazy busy in the summer. We have booked an 11:30 river tour on the Louis Jolliet (we booked through Tripadvisor) which we can see from the Dufferin Terrace. There's a Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec that will take you down to the old city below, I'd really like to take it, but walking over there and then to the boat is too far for Kate. We instead take an Uber to the dock. It's awkward getting there, we're glad to not have a car!
An aside: Nearby, there's another ferry that shuttles people and cars to/from the far shore. The last bridge to cross the river is Pont de Quebec a few miles up river and nearly 40minutes away. When we head out to Moncton we take that route — up river and across the river. There's another bridge down river you'll see in the photo album. That goes to the large l'Île-d'Orléans in the middle of the river but as far as I can tell there is no bridge from there to the south shore.
The river cruise goes as far down river as the Montmorency Falls (see our visit Sept 26) and the bridge that crosses to the l'Île-d'Orléans. I had no idea the falls was that close to the city. Along the way we see the ferry to Levis, a cruise ship, the port of Quebec, casual sailing and some nice views of the city. The weather was nice and the tour was in both French and English. But all in all, we would not recommend it.
After the cruise we have lunch at Va Bene, another Italian restaurant, this one in the old city very near the Funicular. They have a sign advertising "Gnochi Poutine"; that's a funny mix of things (Poutine is a classic Quebec junk food of french fries, gravey and cheese curds). It's a lovely day and we enjoy our lunch and wine on the street side deck. This area, the old city, the lower city, is very busy. There are conducted tours going on, many people on the crowded streets, and a bit of feeling that you're in a Disneyland version of Old Quebec. It must be really crazy during the summer months.
We walk over to the Museum of Civilization (Musée de la civilisation) through some less crowded, but equally old, streets and buildings. As at the Beaux-Artes Musée we get a wheel chair to push Kate around. This museum is quite large and very interesting. Kate gets so interested in the first gallery and spends so much time there that we end up missing some of the galleries. This again is our fault for not allowing enough time. You could easily spend a day at this museum; we only gave it a couple of hours.
That evening we return to Chez Temporel on Couillard, where we had dinner back in 2024. We'd had a big lunch so we go for a drink and something to nosh on. We sit at a small table on the street. It's a restaurant in the old city but a good distance from the hub-bub around the Chateau towards the Port of Quebec. The street is quite narrow, minimal sidewalk, with folks who actually live there. It feels like Paris without the Disneyland effects. Next door is market (Epicerie De La Rue Couillard) where we buy some funny cat themed beers.
We are sitting at a bench on the street waiting for our Uber to pick us up when a down-and-out fellow approaches and asks if we have any change. I don't, nor does Kate, and we indicate as much. But he's persistent, sad and lonely looking. Very much down and out. Kate starts rooting around in her purse and pulls out a $5 bill which she gives him. He responds, "Could you make that a 10?". LoL!