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We spent a week there and I did a lot of tromping about in the old city center on the west shore of the main channel -- hiking the Stroget from the Radus (City Hall) Square to King's New Square (Kongens Nytorv) at the head of the New Harbor (Nyhavn) and then beyond to the royal area Ameliehaven, Churchill Park, the old fortification at Kastellet, and on to the iconic Little Mermaid. There was a lot to see. In this entry I'll try to cover some of the things I found most interesting that are represented in the photo album (click on the image for the album). As I look back on the visit and search through Google maps I see there were a lot of places that I ought to have explored but didn't get to.
The picture at left is the Gefion Fountain (Gefionspringvandet) near the Kastellet (old fort) and the Little Mermaid (Den Lille Havfrue) on the water front. Copenhagen is a spectacular city for public works of art like this fountain and has lots of well tended green spaces. There's a lot of beautiful old buildings from the Art Nouveax/Beaux Artes era that have survived and are lovingly tended. And, as a royal city (currently Margrethe II of Denmark Since 1972), there are these grand palaces, residences and churches built over the centuries. There are some modern Brutalism buildings along the waterfront, e.g. the Royal Library or "Black Diamond", but it's the old city I enjoyed. As the capital city, and a country with a royal family, there's much to see.
If you look at a map of Denmark you'll see this land mass that juts north from Germany and a cluster of islands in the straits between Denmark and Sweden. Copenhagen is to the very far east built at the mouth of a largeish channel that separates the bigger island Zealand from a smaller island Amager. Amager has the airport and the long bridge across to Malmo in Sweden.
It's a city on the water in a cluster of islands with canals, big and small, linking them together. The Nyhavn (or New Harbor in English) is perhaps the most popular. But there's a canal loop around the Christianborg Slot (castle) and lots more through the Christianshavn area across the main canal. The airport, where we arrived from London Heathrow, is on the big island to the south and east of the city center. It's near the very long bridge over the Baltic strait to Malmo in Sweden.
We flew in from Heathrow after a brief visit with family/friends in Woking. Landing at the Copenhagen Airport we rode the train/transit into the city to the main station and walked the few blocks to the modern Norlandia Mercur (our hotel). We were given a tiny room with two single beds (it must have been the conference rater) but upgraded to a better room. The hotel is Danish modern in design but convenient to the Copenhagen University (Københavns Universitet) where Kate had her meetings.
The nearby Botanical Gardens has interesting grounds and a fabulous glassed Greenhouse (Botanisk Have - Palmehuset) to explore. On the grounds of this garden there's water to explore and a ton of classic statuary.
Towards the water the Kastellet (fort or citadell) is an old moated fort with earthworks berms/ramparts. Apparently it's one of the best preserved fortresses in Northern Europe. It is constructed in the form of a pentagon with bastions at its corners and a moat around the outside. Inside there's green space, a wind mill, barracks and active soldiers marching about. But mostly it's a tourist draw. These days this kind of fort is no match for current technologies.
At the north east corner of the Kastellet is the Little Mermaid and of course you can't visit Copenhagen without stopping around to see her. It's an bronze mermaid sculpture (installed here in 1913), by Edvard Eriksen, of a character from H.C. Andersen's fairytale. In recent years it has been vandalized a number of times. Anarchists I guess.
Anyways the Little Mermaid is usually quite busy with lots of tourists. It's not a big statue, lifesize really, and the view to the north is pretty industrial.
Rosenborg Slot
Rosenborg Castle (Slot) was another project of Christian IV built in the early 1600's as a summer home but expanded soon after to become a favorite royal residence for the king and his successors -- it's now a well preserved museum showcasing a renaissance collection of artwork, decorations and gaudy furniture. There's also the crown jewels and a barracks for soldiers guarding things. There are some very young soldiers (I assume summer employees) who dress up in period uniforms with bear skin hats (cf. England) for a changing of the guard.
The King's Garden (Kongens Have) is the large well manicured public green space around the castle (and outside the fortification and moat). On a sunny day this is a popular spot to people watch.
The King's Garden (Kongens Have) is the large well manicured public green space around the castle (and outside the fortification and moat). On a sunny day this is a popular spot to people watch.
Nyhavn Canal Tour
We did a canal tour from Nyhavn with some friends. The New Harbor (Nyhavn) is a popular destination with lots of restaurants and bars. A real people place. We stayed very near here on our first winter visit. With the warm summny weather on this visit we caught a large open air tour boat and puttered around the canals.
On the main channel we got to see some of the Danish Navy -- they have ships and Denmark is a choke point for access to the Baltic sea. The Royal Yacht was at anchor. We motored by the gardens of Ameliehaven just north of Nyhavn for nice views of the fountain, the Royal Residences (Amelienborg) and the Marble Church beyond. Directly across is the modern Opera House on the east bank -- a bit of Brutalism architecture. Further north we see the Little Mermaid and the crowds clambering around her.
On the Christiana (east) side of the main channel there are lots of warehouses from the turn of the last century. Current ship traffic is further afield now (with container ships, etc.) so these old warehouses are now repurposed as condominiums, galleries and more. There's an area along the canals to rival Nyhavn for restaurants and bars.
We saw some kids swimming and jumping into the water of the canals. I've been in the Baltic before in July; it was cold then, I imagine it's cold now!
South of Nyhavn there's the canal loop (we passed clockwise) in around Christiansborg Slot in the old city. With views starting with the modern Royal Library on the main channel, the many bridges to the island (Marble Bridge being the entrance I crossed later to the castle), the Thorvaldsen Museum, Spires of the Castle and the nearby Børsen, equestrian statues of Bishop Absalon and Frederick VII. There's lots to see.
We saw some kids swimming and jumping into the water of the canals. I've been in the Baltic before in July; it was cold then, I imagine it's cold now!
South of Nyhavn there's the canal loop (we passed clockwise) in around Christiansborg Slot in the old city. With views starting with the modern Royal Library on the main channel, the many bridges to the island (Marble Bridge being the entrance I crossed later to the castle), the Thorvaldsen Museum, Spires of the Castle and the nearby Børsen, equestrian statues of Bishop Absalon and Frederick VII. There's lots to see.
While it isn't Venice, the canals of Copenhagen are impressive as is the well maintained historical city.
The area seemed to be populated by hippy squatters who had taken over abandoned warehouses and military barracks. There was a lot of artful graffiti on buildings and quite a bit of scrawled tagging. We found an outdoor "bar" (I rather suspect nothing was licenced) and had a drink together.
We found our restaurant, which seemed to be located on the top floor of a 3 story warehouse but couldn't find an entrance. After searching around a bit we found a buzzer button that you needed to press to get the attention of those in the restaurant so they'd let you in -- a "blind pig" or underground "speakeasy" kind of place. We did get in to find a very nice restaurant and had a good meal.
The whole experience was quite odd. How can this be?
Freetown, Christiania
While I spent most of my time in the old city on the west side of the main channel there were a couple of times we were on the other easterly side. Once when we took a canal tour and again on Tuesday night for dinner with friends. Kate rode her bike over while I took the metro with our friends (we all returned on the metro). One of the KBS locals had recommended we try out "Restaurant Spiseloppen" in an area they call "Freetown".The area seemed to be populated by hippy squatters who had taken over abandoned warehouses and military barracks. There was a lot of artful graffiti on buildings and quite a bit of scrawled tagging. We found an outdoor "bar" (I rather suspect nothing was licenced) and had a drink together.
We found our restaurant, which seemed to be located on the top floor of a 3 story warehouse but couldn't find an entrance. After searching around a bit we found a buzzer button that you needed to press to get the attention of those in the restaurant so they'd let you in -- a "blind pig" or underground "speakeasy" kind of place. We did get in to find a very nice restaurant and had a good meal.
The whole experience was quite odd. How can this be?
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
On Wednesday Kate and I took our rented bikes on the train from Copenhagen Central Station (Københavns Hovedbanegård) north of the city to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. It's about an hour north of the city and then a short bike ride (you could walk it as well). The museum is in a park like setting overlooking the narrow channel to Sweden on the other side. There's an original Victorian era building and an extensive modern structure with a cafe, gift shop and galleries. We especially liked wandering the gardens to explore and find the sculptures. We had some lunch at the cafe, a glorius sunny day, and bumped into several of Kate's KBS friends. One of our Australian friends rode his bike out here from the city.
It's an interesting gallery with an impressive collection. Well worth a visit. Mind you, if you don't like modern art, you won't like this.
There's an interesting story on our return from the museum. We were waiting for our train when we noticed some young girls (perhaps 15 or so) who were waiting for a north bound train on the other side of the tracks. They were swigging away at a bottle of sparkling wine and they noticed me taking their picture (Kate does alcohol research so this seemed to me to be an interesting observation on Danish drinking habits). They took affront to this and started yelling at us in Danish -- Kate warned me not to take pictures of them because this might happen. Of course we don't understand Danish and can't really respond. Just about then another friend arrives and collectively they decide they're going to come across the tracks and have it out with us. So off they go, mad as wet hens, and cross under the tracks to our platform just as our train arrives. We made it safely on board just as they came beating at the doors closing. That was an interesting observation about Danish drinking habits!
It's an interesting gallery with an impressive collection. Well worth a visit. Mind you, if you don't like modern art, you won't like this.
There's an interesting story on our return from the museum. We were waiting for our train when we noticed some young girls (perhaps 15 or so) who were waiting for a north bound train on the other side of the tracks. They were swigging away at a bottle of sparkling wine and they noticed me taking their picture (Kate does alcohol research so this seemed to me to be an interesting observation on Danish drinking habits). They took affront to this and started yelling at us in Danish -- Kate warned me not to take pictures of them because this might happen. Of course we don't understand Danish and can't really respond. Just about then another friend arrives and collectively they decide they're going to come across the tracks and have it out with us. So off they go, mad as wet hens, and cross under the tracks to our platform just as our train arrives. We made it safely on board just as they came beating at the doors closing. That was an interesting observation about Danish drinking habits!
Strøget
The whole of the old city is pedestrian friendly but nothing more so than the long pedestrian shopping mall Strøget street which stretches from the King's New Square (Kongens Nytorv) to the east at the head of Nyhavn (Københavns Havn), wandering westward for over a kilometer to the City Hall Square (Rådhuspladsen). Along the way there are lots of shops (of course) but when you look up a bit you get to see all the well preserved buildings. Two scenic stops along the way are the Stork Fountain (Storkespringvandet) and the Caritas fountain by Statius Otto (Caritasbrønden af Statius Otto). Both are contained in large paved squares and are popular spots to people watch. The fountains themselves are impressive works of art.
On our first Saturday I was wandering Strøget and came upon a Carnival Parade that lasted forever! There were bands with drums but the exciting part was all these scantily clad young women dressed up in elaborate gear for the parade. You might have thought it was Mardi Gras in Rio where it not for all the pasty skinned bodies who hadn't seen much sun in a long time. I took a ton of pictures running my camera battery down in the process.
On our first Saturday I was wandering Strøget and came upon a Carnival Parade that lasted forever! There were bands with drums but the exciting part was all these scantily clad young women dressed up in elaborate gear for the parade. You might have thought it was Mardi Gras in Rio where it not for all the pasty skinned bodies who hadn't seen much sun in a long time. I took a ton of pictures running my camera battery down in the process.
At the Stork Fountain a block south you'll find the canal around the Christiansborg Slot. At the corner of Gammel Strand there's an impressive bronze equestrian statue of Bishop Absalon -- look across to Christianborg Slot and there's another similar equestrian statue of Frederik VII. But for me, the more interesting statue, is the humble Fisher Woman carved in stone.
City Hall Square
City Hall Square at the far west end of Strøget is another destination and I visited often. There's the nearby Tivoli Gardens but I never ventured there -- I gather it's yet another amusement park with roller coaster rides and the like. The City Hall is an impressive brick building with a clock tower dominating the sky line. I did a tour of the building led up the tower by a young guide who wanted to run through it as quickly as possible. It was hard to keep up. But inside the City Hall there are some interesting things to see. There are some carved stone details worth exploring.
In the active City Hall Square there are some impressive works of art. There's the two bronze Hornblowers on a tall tower, bronze dragons protecting the city hall and more bronze in the Dragon's Leap Fountain. To the one side is a statue of Hans Christian Anderson -- it's near Hans Christian Anderson Blvd! There was a Salvador Dali bronze of several amphora with weird creatures on board as well.
On the city hall there's yet another statue of Bishop Absalon -- this one is gilted.
The City Hall Square is an active transit point on the city underground metro. It's surrounded by shops and lots of signage. To the north east side is the Scandic Palace Hotel with its impressive tall tower.
Rodin's Burghers of Calais is an impressive weathered piece (it must have been outside at some time). I've seen other copies but especially liked that this version that had been left to weather and streak.
There's also a large collection of ancient Egyptian, Roman and Greek artifacts.
In the active City Hall Square there are some impressive works of art. There's the two bronze Hornblowers on a tall tower, bronze dragons protecting the city hall and more bronze in the Dragon's Leap Fountain. To the one side is a statue of Hans Christian Anderson -- it's near Hans Christian Anderson Blvd! There was a Salvador Dali bronze of several amphora with weird creatures on board as well.
On the city hall there's yet another statue of Bishop Absalon -- this one is gilted.
The City Hall Square is an active transit point on the city underground metro. It's surrounded by shops and lots of signage. To the north east side is the Scandic Palace Hotel with its impressive tall tower.
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek
Of the many galleries and museums I visited I was most impressed by the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. It's an art museum with an incredible collection of 19th century French and Danish works. The lobby when you enter is a peaceful green space under a high domed roof with a modern beautifully bizarre sculpture centerpiece in white marble of a young woman with a ton of young children attempting to suckle.Rodin's Burghers of Calais is an impressive weathered piece (it must have been outside at some time). I've seen other copies but especially liked that this version that had been left to weather and streak.
There's also a large collection of ancient Egyptian, Roman and Greek artifacts.
A City for Biking
Copenhagen is a bicycle town. It's flat and there are busy bike lanes -- people use bikes as a major form of transportation. There are some free bikes you can use but we found them few and far between (people, when they find one, tend to lock them up so they can use them when they come back). We ended up renting bikes from a nearby hotel, we ought to have rented them for the entire time. I might have seen more of the city.Summary
In closing, Copenhagen is certainly an interesting city to visit. It's very well preserved with a ton of history -- it's the capital city and the home of a long standing royal family. There's lots of green space, water, and public art to enjoy.
I'd return again if an opportunity arose. Mind you, from my limited experience the weather is nice in the summer but cool and dreary in the winter.
