On Saturday, the day after the wedding, we four (me and Kate, Sam and Barry) headed out to Fredericton, NB for a couple of days. The "newly weds" were flying home to Winnipeg on Monday from "Freddy", we were heading home via the "US route" the same day.
We had some travel suggestions/guidance from family and friends. Paula did her MA at the University there so was able to provide several recommendations including the gallery and a couple of restaurants. Our other friend Sam (of Sam and Al in London) had lived in the area in her youth, her sister is still in the area. She recommended we check out the pretty town Gagetown which is on the St John River just a little off the Trans Canada Highway 2 (about two hours from Shediac and an hour or so to Fredericton). Oddly the
"Gagetown Military Base" is in Oromocto, closer to Fredericton, and not in Gagetown. There's a story there but I'm not entirely clear about it.
We stopped in Gagetown to have lunch at
Gulliver's World Cafe on River Run Lane. We had read about it on Tripadvisor (or perhaps Google Maps); I recall it was rated as the best restaurant in Gagetown. But then again Gagetown is a very small town, not much larger than a village, and only has maybe two other restaurants. It wasn't hard to find tucked down a lane beside the river.
We arrived to a lovely sunny day. The restaurant had a patio where we could sit to enjoy the view and it wasn't very busy. There was another table being served. The hostess, who turned out to be the owner with her husband (the chef), asked if we had reservations. "Ah, no. Do we need one?" It turns out that reservations are very much recommended, especially at this time of year. They chef orders supplies sufficient for those who have made reservations and, as we didn't make a reservation, they may not have enough in stock to feed us. She checked with the chef and fortunately they were able to take us. The menu was quite limited — a soup, some sandwiches and a roast chicken which I had. I'm surprised we weren't seated right away without any fuss.
We enjoyed the food and drinks and had quite a chat with the server/hostess/owner. I understand they cater to weddings and other special events. Also that their busy season is the summer and at this time of year they really looking towards shutting down for the season. It's a lovely spot on the river and perhaps it was busy with reservations that evening. But not so busy when we stopped in for lunch.
We gas up at the highway and discover you can buy liquor and wine at the gas station. We stocked up. Needlessly. Which meant we entered the US later a little over our liquor import limits. Fortunately the kindly fellow at US Customs and Immigration did not ask nor did the Canadians when we crossed back into Canada.
In Fredericton we're staying at the Delta Fredericton (a Marriott) a little up the river from the center of town. Kate and Sam have made the reservation, I stay out of the way as they check in. Barry has yet to learn to leave well enough alone ("A lotta guys would stay clear ...."). The Delta is a large, fairly posh place, with a convention center and an outdoor pool/recreation areas (closed for the season). There was some big international convention/gang there during our stay. They were competing in a fishing competition. Google tells me:
"The 2024 Pan-American Black Bass Championship will be held in Fredericton, New Brunswick from September 25–29, 2024"
The fishers had team uniforms and hung out at the bar until very late. Much later than we. There was some live music that evening at the lobby bar (we had eaten at the hotel restaurant). They were pretty competent musicians and played music we enjoyed. We asked them, even asked them on a $20 bill, to play certain songs. It became a bit of game as they'd usually turn down our requests. "I like the music, I know the song, but we haven't rehearsed that one!". They dragged a friend in who was able to play some John Prine for us. The wait staff, the next day, were telling us that someone from the fishing tourney kept everyone up very late buy rounds for everyone. They had a hard time shutting the bar down.
The next day we used Uride (an alternative to Uber, there is no Uber in Fredericton) to get around the city. Our hard drinkin' ways mean that we ought to be safe rather than sorry.
At Paula's recommendation we first went to the
Beaverbrook Art Gallery. We arrived there on Sunday morning just as it opened. It's a large modern gallery, across the street from the NB Parliament, with a collection that just blew me away. There's a modest entry fee you pay at the gift shop. We found that you could borrow a wheel chair which I used to push Kate around. Not that she couldn't walk, but this makes it much easier for her.
The first gallery we enter has an impressive collection of Canadiana — Group of Seven through to modern classics like Alex Colville, Mary and Christopher Pratt. There's a large group of religious paintings from around 1500. Nearby is Kent Monkman's "The Trapper's Bride" (2006) — we saw a travelling exhibit of his works at the LRAG (London) with Ross and Bev a few years ago. One of the real surprises that is a large (3m x 4m) Salvador Dali, "Santiago El Grande" (1957), which, with a few smaller pieces occupies a gallery at the end of the building. It's a piece you would expect to find at the MOMA in New York, the Louvre in Paris or the Prado in Spain. How it ended up here must be an interesting story.
In the basement there were some experimental installations. All quite interesting. But Sam and Barry are not as keen, we return to find them nursing a glass of wine in the lobby. We have a lunch at a nearby restaurant Isaac's Way. We sit outside on the back patio which overlooks a classic red and white clapboard lighthouse. Inside they have interesting quotations on the wall including:
"Once, during the Depression, I was forced to live for days on nothing but food and water!" W.C. Fields
We return for a rest at our hotel and meet up with the newly weds at the bar later in the day. That evening we returned to the same area downtown to have some drinks at the "540 Kitchen & Bar" (recommended by Paula) and dinner around the corner at "MOCO Downtown" where again the hostess/server is in fact the owner with her husband the chef. I think her son was there bussing too.
I feel we did not do Fredericton justice. There's a lot there to see and we barely brushed the surface. Perhaps next time we'll stay longer and explore more.